Big Bend Adventures
Detour ahead issue #19, Part two of our Family Road Trip, Easy Baked Chile Rellenos Casserole, Mexican Rice, and an Easy Sopapilla Cheesecake
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Part Two
We left Sonora on Wednesday after our cave tour, ready to settle in at Big Bend. What we didn’t expect was a string of minor mishaps on the way there—starting with the truck’s A/C deciding to quit on us.
One minute it was blowing cold air, the next it wasn’t. We ended up driving with the windows down until it randomly kicked back on at a gas station. Then, a couple of hours later, it quit again. That happened off and on the whole way.
And just when we thought we’d caught a break, it started pouring. Ken flipped on the windshield wipers—and one of them flew right off and bent itself into the hood of the truck. He had to pull over in the middle of a downpour and try to fix it, which, of course, meant getting completely soaked.
Jacob had the idea to tape it, and thankfully Ken had some aluminum tape in the RV. It wasn’t pretty, but it held. We were just grateful the A/C was working again for that stretch because rolling the windows down wasn’t an option.
Camping in Terlingua
We finally made it to Paisano Village RV Park & Inn in Terlingua—and we had the entire place to ourselves. Only one other camper in sight. That meant Sheena got to run off-leash and explore, which made her a happy girl.
The RV park turned out to be a really nice surprise. Our site had access to a private, hotel-style bathroom with a big rainfall shower, and they even provided fancy soap and shampoo like a regular inn.
The sites run about $50.00 per night. We had full hookups, working WIFI, and the sites were really easy to get into, even with our big rig.
Our site faced the mountains, and each morning, Sheena and I would sit outside and watch the sunrise between the peaks while everyone else slept in.
I’ve come to love the mornings when it’s just me, a cup of coffee, and the sound of nothing. Not every moment has to be filled. The pauses are where the good stuff sinks in.
The first day there, we mostly just rested. We played games, ate dinner at the Dairy Queen in town, and took it easy after the long drive.
Swimming at Balmorhea
The next morning, we made breakfast and then drove out to Balmorhea State Park to visit the world’s largest spring-fed swimming pool. The water is crystal clear and full of fish and turtles. It’s also freezing, so be prepared.
Jacob and Ken snorkeled while Olivia and I floated with the fish, which felt great once we got used to the cold.
After a couple of hours, we noticed a storm forming in the distance (Yes, again). We had a quick picnic lunch (Homemade Chicken Salad) and packed up before the rain hit, then headed back to camp to rest up for the evening hike we had planned.
Our “Sunset” Hike
That night, we drove into Big Bend National Park to hike the Lost Mine Trail in time to catch the sunset. We knew it would be a night hike coming down, and we were ready with our headlamps.
What we weren’t ready for was the sudden drop in temperature. We thought this trip would be blazing hot, but we ended up being cold way more than we were warm.
We started the hike in shorts and t-shirts, already regretting that decision. There were signs warning about bears, mountain lions, and snakes—not exactly comforting, but we pressed on.
The trail is about 2.5 miles up with a 1,100-foot incline, and it’s no joke. Just as we were getting close to the top, the clouds rolled in and the rain started. Cold rain. Lots of it.
We made it to the top, but heavy clouds blocked the sunset, and the freezing rain didn’t make it easy to enjoy the view for long.
Heading back down, the trail turned to mud almost instantly and it got dark, fast. This isn’t “normal” dark. The dark in this area of the country is different. You literally couldn’t see your hand in front of your face. We had our headlamps, but with the slippery trail and freezing rain, those last two and a half miles felt like five. But we made it back with stories to tell.
It’s not always the trip you planned, but it’s the one you’ll talk about for years.
By the time we made it back to the RV, we were soaked, freezing, and exhausted. Thank goodness for those amazing hot showers at the RV park. I stood in there until I could feel my fingers again. We finally crawled into bed around midnight.
Stars at 3 a.m.
Our alarms went off at 3:00 a.m.—yep, we actually got up. We groggily headed back into the park for one last Big Bend experience: stargazing at the darkest hour before dawn.
And it was SO worth it.
You could see the Milky Way stretched across the sky like a painting. I’ve never seen that many stars in my life. Pictures can’t do it justice. We stayed out there and watched the sky slowly change as the sun came up over the mountains.
Once the sun came up, we headed out to explore the park. We took the Santa Elena Canyon Trail down to the Rio Grande River. The river was moving pretty fast, so we decided not to cross, but Ken took some time to wade in its muddy waters.
After that, we headed back to the RV for a much-needed nap.
A Day in Marfa
For our final full day in West Texas, we decided to take a little detour out to Marfa—a small desert town known for its artsy vibe, mysterious lights, and old Hollywood history. Olivia, who’s studying to be an artist, was especially excited because Marfa is home to several large-scale works by Donald Judd, the minimalist artist she’s been learning about in school.
Marfa is one of those places that feels like it belongs in a movie—which makes sense because it was the filming location for Giant with Elizabeth Taylor, Rock Hudson, and James Dean. The downtown area is filled with quirky galleries, vintage storefronts, and minimalist desert installations that look like they were dropped there on purpose and forgotten by time. It’s weird but in a good way.
A Stop at Hotel Paisano
We wandered through the Hotel Paisano. Built in 1930 in Spanish Revival style, it became the headquarters for the Giant film crew during the summer of 1955. The big stars—James Dean, Elizabeth Taylor, and Rock Hudson—spent nearly two months there while filming nearby.
These days, the hotel is still operating, complete with a Giant memorabilia room, a café, and that classic lobby where the cast used to hang out.
The ‘Giant’ Mural Along Highway 90
Just 5 miles west of Marfa is something you just have to stop for—the massive “Giant” mural by artist John Cerney. It’s a tribute to the 1956 classic Giant, filmed nearby, and features life‑size cut‑outs of the cast along Highway 90. What’s cool is that it stands right where the movie was shot—on the Little Reata Ranch—and even has a tiny solar‑powered speaker playing country music designed by Michael Nesmith of The Monkees.
Dinner at Angel’s
After a full afternoon exploring Marfa, we were ready for a good meal. A few locals had recommended a small spot called Angel’s, so we headed there for dinner. It’s nothing fancy—just a little roadside hole-in-the-wall that serves solid, home-style Mexican food. I ordered the chile relleno, and it was exactly what I was craving. Roasted poblano, melty cheese, and a simple tomato-based sauce. Comfort food done right.
I knew right away I wanted to recreate something similar at home. A baked version that hits the same flavor notes without deep frying! I hate to fry food at home, especially when we are traveling in the RV. I’ve shared the recipe below, and trust me, it’s a keeper.
The Marfa Lights
Marfa is probably just as well known for its weird desert art scene as it is for the Marfa Lights—those mysterious, unexplained glowing orbs people claim to see dancing out over the horizon. There’s even a whole viewing area set up just outside of town.
We had every intention of driving out there after dinner, but by the time we finished eating, we were wiped. After a week of hiking, stargazing, and late nights, the idea of crawling into bed won out over chasing desert ghosts.
Still, it’s one of those things I’d love to come back and see sometime.
Recipes from this week
This week, I’m sharing three recipes inspired by the Mexican food we ate at Angel’s in Marfa. The chile relleno I ordered there was exactly the kind of comforting, no-frills food I love, so I came home and worked up a version that’s RV‑friendly and easy to make ahead. It turned into a baked chile rellenos casserole that’s cheesy, roasted, and full of flavor without the need for frying.
I’m also sharing my go-to Mexican rice—simple, fluffy, and perfect on the side—and a quick and easy sopapilla cheesecake that’s always a hit.
All three are easy enough for a weeknight but still feel special. Grab the recipes below and let me know if you give them a try!
Easy Baked Chile Rellenos
This cheesy, comforting casserole layers roasted poblano peppers, melty cheese, and a light Ranchero sauce—all of the flavors of a traditional chile relleno, but baked instead of fried. It's easy to assemble and makes the kitchen smell delicious!
Servings: 6
Time: approximately 50 minutes
Ingredients:
3-4 fresh poblano peppers depending on size
10 ounces of Oaxaca cheese, you could substitute Monterey Jack, mozzarella, pepper jack, or whatever melty cheese your family loves
3 large eggs at room temperature
½ teaspoon baking powder
⅓ cup all-purpose flour
⅓ cup milk
Salt & black pepper to taste
Sour Cream and Guacamole optional for garnish
3 Roma tomatoes
1 jalapeño
¼ white onion
1-2 garlic cloves depending on size
1 teaspoon chicken bouillon
¼ teaspoon dried oregano
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 corn tortilla
4 tablespoons olive oil or avocado oil
Instructions:
Start by roasting your poblano peppers. You can do this on a gas grill or directly over the flame of a stovetop burner. If you’re cooking in your RV or just want a quicker option, the air fryer works great. Just roast the peppers until the skins are charred and blistered.
3-4 poblano peppers, depending on the size
Once they’re roasted, pop the chiles into a plastic bag and let them steam for about 10 minutes. That makes it easier to peel off the charred skin. Use your hands or a spoon to gently remove the skin, then slice each pepper open and take out the seeds.
Grate about 10 ounces of Oaxaca cheese and set it aside.
Separate 3 eggs—yolks in one bowl, whites in another—and let them come to room temperature if they’re not already.
Beat the egg whites at high speed until they’re fluffy and soft peaks form.
Add the yolks, baking powder, flour, milk, salt, and black pepper right into the same bowl and mix on medium speed until everything is smooth and fully combined.
3 yolks, ½ tsp baking powder, ⅓ cup milk, salt and pepper to taste
Spray an 8×8 inch baking dish with cooking spray, then spread a thin layer of the egg mixture across the bottom (about ½ cup).
Layer in half of the roasted peppers, then sprinkle on a third of the cheese. Add the rest of the peppers, and another third of the cheese, pour in the remaining egg mixture, and finish with the last of the cheese on top.
Bake at 350°F for 30–35 minutes, or until the top is puffed and golden brown.
While the casserole is baking, make the ranchero sauce:
Place your Roma tomatoes, jalapeño, white onion, and garlic cloves on a sheet pan and broil them until nicely charred. You can also do this in your air fryer if it has a broil function. Let everything cool slightly, then peel the skins off the tomatoes and jalapeño.
3 Roma tomatoes, 1 jalapeño, ¼ white onion, 1 large or 2 small garlic cloves
Heat about four tablespoons of olive oil in a pan and fry one corn tortilla until it’s golden and crisp on both sides.
Transfer the fried tortilla to a blender or food processor, along with the peeled tomatoes, jalapeño, onion, and garlic.
Add a spoonful of chicken bouillon, dried oregano, tomato paste, and a splash of water. Blend until smooth. Then pour the sauce back into the same pan you used for frying the tortilla and let it simmer for a couple of minutes to thicken.
1 tsp chicken bouillon, ¼ tsp oregano, 1 tbsp tomato paste
To serve, spoon some ranchero sauce onto the plate, top with a slice of the chile relleno casserole, and add a side of warm corn tortillas and Mexican rice.
Secret Ingredient Mexican Rice
This isn’t your average side dish—salsa is the secret that gives this Mexican rice its bold flavor and just the right amount of kick. It adds depth, a little heat, and saves you from having to chop tomatoes and peppers. Just a handful of pantry staples and you’ve got fluffy, flavorful rice that pairs perfectly with just about everything.
Find the recipe here 👉 Mexican Rice
Sopapilla Cheesecake
A flaky crescent dough base topped with creamy cheesecake filling, dusted with sweet cinnamon sugar, and drizzled with honey. It’s like sopapilla meets cheesecake—rich, comforting, and so easy that it practically makes itself.
You can find the recipe here 👉 Sopapilla Cheesecake
Reader Spotlight
Have you ever been to Big Bend? Or maybe tried one of the recipes from this week’s issue? I’d love to hear from you! Whether you’ve got a favorite trail, a good roadside stop, or a photo of your chile rellenos casserole fresh out of the oven—send it my way. I’d love to feature one in next week’s issue!
Whew—this one was a long one, so if you’ve made it all the way to the end, thank you for sticking with me. I had so much to share from this part of the trip, and honestly, reliving it through writing has been almost as fun as living it.
Next week, I’ll be switching gears and heading to Yantis, Texas for a weekend with the girls—so stay tuned for a change of scenery and maybe a few new things from the kitchen too.
Well, guys, that’s all I’ve got for now! Wishing you a fantastic week ahead. If you’ve enjoyed this newsletter, I’d love it if you shared it with a friend!
Spread the word – Invite a fellow food lover or travel enthusiast to join us on this journey.
And if you try a recipe, have a question, or just want to say hello, drop a comment below—I’d truly love to hear from you! ❤️
~Holly
I’m so glad you all managed to have so much fun despite the mishaps! It’s never the trip you planned, is it? And those stars!!! Amazing! All the food looks as delicious as ever. Thanks for sharing your trip with us!
What gorgeous photos! I lived in Texas for nearly 10 years but never made it to any of these places. That sopapilla cheesecake sounds like a must-try.